It's rare that I get very excited about Mexican food. In fact, this is probably the first time!
Since the 1980's, what we have grown accustomed to is Texmex - which in my mind is basically baby food with chilli.
Just blended a fraction more, it could administered using a babies bottle.
Various coloured goo! Guacamole, salsa, refried beans, minced chicken and cheesy sauce all wrapped in, well, in a wrap.
Definitely not so here at Kol.
I'm very excited about a visit to Kol, Mexico and London's freshest answer to fine dining. The first thing we noticed was the clean terracotta internal decor, and staff dress.
This isn't pure Mexican food, anymore than the aforementioned Texmex. No, this is Mexican English fusion. We chatted to the talented young Michelin starred Chef, Santiago Lastra who is the brains behind the menu, and he called it Brexican. Who am I to argue?
Young, personable, talented and great teeth. B*stard!
Spicy Margarita. Perfection.
The wine list was pricey but fascinating. Central European listings. With some really interesting wines.
The German Riesling we chose was delicious. Surprisingly yellow, and bursting with apple, pear and apricot with flint minerality, almost sherbet. Lay Purus. (4.2/5 in my book.)
Followed by a Czech red wine from Tomas Springer. Cvtrte Pinot Noir, which was pure cherry, raspberry, and vanilla: exceptional. Sadly we had the last bottle of the Cvtrte, yes I know but this was a BIG long lunch! (4.1)
So our third bottle was the Korab, another Czech Pinot. Much more plum, sour cherry, and oak. (3.9)
I didn't find out why a Mexican restaurant serves Central European wines, I should really have asked our new mate Santi. Mexico isn't a wine producer. I guess they wanted a point of difference superbly showcasing the increasingly fashionable great organic bio wines now emerging from Central Europe.
We opted, after far too much discussion, for the full lunch tasting menu. Thank goodness! It was triumphal and had everything we hoped for.
Highlights were many, but I vote for three:
Taco with sea buckthorn, langoustine and smoked chilli. Squeezing the langoustine head from the shell onto the taco adds theatre, and a delicious fishy salty dressing.
An amazing roast tomato dish was sweet but cooked with a lamb gravy giving genuine depth of flavour.
The star was our shared dish of smoky roast octopus, buttery bone marrow, and market fresh courgette.
Each of the six dishes brought different elements to fuse Mexican with fabulous British ingredients. The British wagu was so good. The blackened but perfectly cooked salmon, an absolute delight.
My personal gripe, I'm not that keen on corn taco's. For me, the corn flavour is strong and overpowers some more delicate flavours. But don't let this stop you deciding for yourself, most of us loved them.
The staff were relaxed and easy, confident, and ...... well yes, happy! It is highly unusual to be struck by happiness in a restaurant, but here it's clear that they are. There is a family, matey, hard working joy about the beautiful young people. Well done everyone, thanks for having us.
Definitely worth the Michelin star
Cost around £250 per head
Ambience staff and chef 10
Food 9.4
Decor 9
Experience 10
To make an even fuller day of it, we had our pre-margaritas at Nobu just around the corner, and went on after to Archer Street for more drinks, dancing and live singers. What a day, wallet well and truly bruised and battered.
Below is a link to Giles Coren's 2021 review of Kol for The Times. Unlike me, he really knows his stuff. Damn him, he is also a properly talented writer. So if you want to read something more on this subject, I do recommend his review. I doubt he had as much fun!
Looks lovely. £250 a head, I assume was the tasting menu and wine pairing? Toppy for us really. Did you rate it as value for money?